Barn Fire Beware: Preparation and planning can save you from potential disaster.
By Lindsey Finn |
|||||||||||||||
It’s 5:00 in the afternoon on a hot summer day and you have just arrived home from work. A deafening boom overhead alerts you to the approaching thunderstorm. You hurry to bring in your horses to the safety of their stalls. You rush through the front door of your home just before the first splatters of rain hit the porch behind you. You hear the first crack of lightning, and it’s too close for comfort. But nothing feels out of place and you’ve done this a thousand times before. However, nothing has really prepared for you for the plume of smoke that starts to waft out of the first stall window. It’s not often we think about the potential for disaster that can lie behind our daily routines. And more often than not, we are not prepared to deal with these disasters when they strike. At this point you may be going through a quick mental checklist of measures that you may already have in place to combat a barn fire. However for those of you who are saying to yourself, “I have never even considered what I would do …” this |
 Florida has more lighting strikes per year than any other place in America. Additionally, Florida leads the U.S. in deaths and injuries from lightning strikes. |
||||||||||||||
article will explain just what a barn fire can mean to you and your beloved horses. Having a plan in place can mean the difference between minor damages and total loss. Behavior of a Fire A fire occurs when a fuel source comes in contact with an ignition source. In a barn, almost anything can be a fuel source. Liquid fuels such as alcohol, alcohol-based liniments and rubs, hoof oils and creosote can be found in most barns. And there is no short supply of solid fuels – hay, straw, shavings, grain and the barn’s construction materials. After contact with an ignition source (open flame, electrical spark, intense heat) the fuel begins to smolder. Smoldering can take only a few minutes or it can last for hours because the length of the smoldering process is determined by many factors. Fires caught during the smoldering phase have a greater chance of being controlled but can also be the most difficult to detect. Smoke and heat production increases as the fire smolders, and usually enough heat has been generated to produce flames. Once flames are present the fire grows rapidly and the heat produced becomes intense. Within minutes, survival inside the structure is unlikely and the building contents are destroyed. Smoke is produced in the earliest stages of fire development. Low-temperature fires produce darker, thicker smoke, while hot-temperature fires produce less visible smoke. Smoke and heat are the fires killing attributes. Fires need oxygen to survive and as it consumes the available oxygen in the barn, carbon monoxide combines with hemoglobin in the blood resulting in suffocation. Lightning Lightning is an atmospheric discharge of electricity which typically occurs during thunderstorms. In the atmospheric electrical discharge, a leader of a bolt of lightning can travel at speeds of 60,000 meters/second, and can reach temperatures near 54,000o F. Lightning strikes can cause severe property damage as well as potential death to a person or animal. Florida leads the country in injuries and deaths due to lightning, with North Carolina, Tennessee and Georgia all in the top 10. Lightning can enter a building by striking a metal object that extends upward from the building. A Lightning Protection Institute study found that 9 out of 10 barns struck by lighting burn to the ground and are totally destroyed. All barns, regardless of age, should be outfitted with a lightning rod. A properly installed and grounded lightning protection system is good insurance to minimize the chance of a barn catching fire from a lightning strike. You should hire a professional certified installer in your area to install a lighting rod. For more information about an installer’s credentials, visit the Lightning Protection Institute at www.lightning.org. Spontaneous Combustion of Hay |
|||||||||||||||
Most hay fires on farms are likely the cause of spontaneous combustion. Oddly enough, wet hay is more likely to lead to a spontaneous combustion fire than dry hay. If hay is put into a barn or stack when it has more than about 22% moisture, not only does the hay lose forage quality, but it has an increased risk of spontaneous combustion. Even after grass and legume forages are cut and baled, plant respiration continues and generates a small amount of heat. When moisture levels are too high, the respiratory heat will provide an environment where chemical reactions can occur. Because hay insulates, the larger the haystack is, the less cooling there is to offset the heat. It is a good idea |
 Storing hay in a horse barn is a serious fire hazard as hay can spontaneously combust. |
||||||||||||||
| to stack bales on their sides with the stems of the cut hay running up and down. This allows convection ventilation of warm moist air up and out of the bale. The greener or moister the hay, the looser it should be packed to allow cooling or curing without danger of mildew formation or combustion. When the internal temperature of hay rises above 130oF, a chemical reaction begins to produce flammable gas that can ignite if the temperature goes high enough. Hay fires generally occur within six weeks of baling. Heating occurs in all hay above 15% moisture, but generally peaks at 125o to 130o F, within 3 to 7 days, with minimal risk of combustion or forage quality loss. Temperature within a stack then declines to safe levels in the next 15 to 60 days, depending on bale and stack density, ambient temperature and humidity, and rainfall absorbed by the hay. If you are storing hay it should be checked regularly for moisture and heat buildup (See Table 1). Two characteristics of heating hay is a slight caramel odor or a distinct musty smell. |
|||||||||||||||
|
Hay fires are very difficult to extinguish completely. The tightly laced forages prevent water from penetrating to the core. Only a forceful blast of water can penetrate deep enough to extinguish the fire. When hot hay bales are found, summon the fire department. Tell the dispatcher that you have hot hay bales that might ignite so that the fire department can plan on how best to handle your situation. When storing hay, it is best to keep it in a separate hay storage building if possible. Upper level storage with a solid floor is preferable to stall-level storage because heat, smoke and flames move upward. Laurie Loveman, member of the National Fire Protection Association, maintains that if hay is stored at stall level, the area must be completely separated from the stalls and enclosed with 2-hour fire-resistant roofing and wall materials. She admits that if you are only buying hay for two or three horses and you buy hay frequently, stall level hay storage may be more practical than the ideal. One of the best fire prevention tools in regards to hay fires is a broom. Keeping loose hay and straw swept up prevents flaming hay that can drop or blow from starting other fires. |
||||||||||||||
|
Barn Design with Fire in Mind |
|||||||||||||||
If you are building a barn there are a few common rules to keep in mind at the blue print stage. Stalls surrounding the perimeter of a center-aisle barn should have both a front and rear door. According to Loveman, all barns should have a minimum of two exits, both of which are easily accessible and have no impediments to their immediate use. Ideally, the exits should allow you to lead a horse from the stall into the aisle way and then directly outside in a straight line. Aisles should be wide enough to accommodate two handlers and two horses, side-by-side for emergency evacuation. Doors should slide completely to one side or the other or open outward to prevent horses from catching a hip on the door. Latches should be easy to operate with one hand. A solid floor-to-ceiling wall constructed |
 |
||||||||||||||
| every fourth stall in a long stretch of stalls will keep flames from jumping stall partitions into the next group of stalls. A mechanical room should be provided for the electrical panel, hot water heater, washer and dryer, etc. The walls and ceiling of this room should be protected with 2-hour-rated fire resistant materials. The site of the barn also needs consideration. Design the facility for accessibility of large rescue vehicles. A 12-foot wide lane is sufficient and any bridges should support a 40,000 pound fire truck. Place buildings 50 to 100 feet away from the barn. A distance of 100-feet reduces the chance of fire spreading from building to building. The 50-foot gap allows access for fire-fighting equipment. Ms. Loveman warns that you should reconsider using any kind of foam insulation. Horses need wind protection more than added heat. Insulating foams often burn very fast and produce dense black smoke. Some types melt and drip when exposed to fire and brands that fall while burning will spread the fire even faster. If you have insulation in your barn, she suggests removing it or covering it with a fire-retardant material. Sprinkler SystemsSprinkler systems are the most effective lifesaving and fire suppression devices you can install |
|||||||||||||||
| in your barn. The sprinkler system must have an adequate year-round water supply. It takes 500 gallons of water per minute to fight a hay fire of 250 bales. Most sprinkler systems open to apply water to a fire when a sensing element in the individual sprinkler head comes into contact with intense heat. A sprinkler system usually suppresses a fire with as few as two sprinkler heads and is very effective at controlling fires before they get out of hand. On average, one sprinkler head will distribute 25 gallons of water per minute to extinguish the blaze. As more sprinklers are activated, more water must be available to maintain pressure in the line. If water availability is a problem a water tank can be installed. A sprinkler system should be considered for any new barn construction and can be added to an existing barn. Sprinkler systems are not a do-it-yourself project and should be installed by a professional that is state certified. Check with your insurance agent to see if discounted rates are offered for barns with sprinklers. While the initial investment may seem high, the insurance savings alone, over time may pay for the cost of the system. |
 Covering a horse’s eyes with a towel or cloth may helpful in leading the horse out of the stall during a fire. Photo courtesy of Emergency Training Systems. |
||||||||||||||
Electrical Considerations Ms. Loveman says that at some point between where the incoming electricity comes from the road and enters the barn, a shutoff switch should be located that will cut off electricity to the barn. She says that this switch can be located inside or outside but that it needs to be accessible at all times and its location should be clearly marked so it can be seen from a distance of 75 feet. The purpose of the switch is to cut off all power to the barn, but not to other buildings, water pumps or telephones. Wiring should be enclosed in metal conduit that will protect the wiring from corrosion or from destruction by animals and birds. One main cause of electrical fires is from short circuits caused by overloaded systems, no conduits or faulty conduits. Just as in homes, more electrical outlets should be installed to keep from overloading circuits. With only a few electrical outlets, horse owners are likely to resort to extension cords which tend become a permanent fixture and are a major potential fire hazard. Talk to your electrician about where to install electrical outlets. You will want one near every stall, not necessarily in front of every stall. Also, where will you be doing activities, such as clipping, in your barn? Outlets in the aisle way or in crossties are a smart idea. Electrical outlets can be put near wash racks so long as they are designed for use around water with a cover so they will automatically trip the switch in case of a short. Outlets should be kept clean and free of cobwebs. Use child proof plastic inserts to cover any unused outlets. Outlets located outside should have flip-open covers. Ms. Loveman precautions that when you install switches, outlets and lights, your electrician should seal all the gaps around the entrances to every box with silicone caulk. Enough fires are started by sparking dust in electrical systems, sealing everything off at the start is a wise decision. Fire Extinguishers |
|||||||||||||||
Every barn should have portable fire extinguishers. However, due to their small size, the usefulness of portable extinguishers in barn fires is limited. They are most beneficial when a fire is small and immediately discovered. However, an extinguisher may contain the fire until help arrives. Extinguishers should be located near each exit, in the tack room, and near the electrical panel. For larger barns, install additional extinguishers every 50 feet along the aisle. Every person who is regularly in the barn should be trained in how to properly use a fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers have several ratings, depending on the type of fire that they are to be used for. Class A extinguishers will put out fires of normal combustible materials such as wood and paper. Class B extinguishers should be used on fires involving flammable liquids. Class C extinguishers are designed for use on electrically energized fires. The most versatile type of extinguisher is the multipurpose ABC-type that extinguishes the |
 |
||||||||||||||
| broadest range of fires. Your extinguisher must be rated for the type of fire that you are trying to put out. Using the wrong type of extinguisher on a fire can a make a bad situation worse!
|
|||||||||||||||
| When a fire starts, every second is critical. Having an evacuation plan for your barn is as important as having one for your home. If you need help in designing an evacuation plan, you can inform you local fire department about your barn and property and ask them to make a pre-fire plan for your property.
In a fire emergency, your first step should be to call the fire department. When you call the emergency number, tell the dispatcher “I have a horse stable fire at (your address).” By specifying that a horse stable is on fire, you are letting emergency personnel know that living creatures are involved. Your second step is to evacuate all nonessential personnel from the barn such as students and visitors. Evacuating your animals should be your third step. Having a plan specifically for your barn is a must. Loveman gives suggestions for questions to ask yourself when designing this plan. For example: which exit door should I use? Which pasture should the horse be put in? Which horse should be evacuated first and why? Where should I park my car to keep it out of the way of fire fighting equipment? Loveman warns about the horse that will not leave the stall. She says that if you attempt to move a horse and it resists, you must leave him behind. Leave the barn and do not go back in because conditions can quickly worsen to a point where you cannot evacuate yourself. |
|
||||||||||||||
| their panic they may hinder firefighter operations, cause traffic accidents, or cause harm to themselves or others. Your evacuation plan should include a secure space for all animals. Know ahead of time which paddock or pasture to use that is safe and secure, making sure that no animal is left alone. Dogs should be kept on a leash and cats should be contained in carriers. Loveman suggests that this is a good job for any youngsters that are on the property as it keeps both the dog or cat and the child safe. An Ounce of Prevention |
|||||||||||||||
Equus Caballus, the magazine of the domestic horse, has been dedicated to the proper care and feeding of horses, ponies, donkeys and mules for over seven years. This site is a compilation of over 400 archived articles and new features about nutrition, health and equine management.
Welcome and please come back often.